would like to hear from anyone having successful use of latex paint on the fabric finish. Nearing the final finish stage and would like options. Thanks, Moses mosjas@bellsouth.net
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would like to hear from anyone having successful use of latex paint on the fabric finish. Nearing the final finish stage and would like options. Thanks, Moses mosjas@bellsouth.net
Moses,
EAA is having a Webinar on October 9th at 1900 hrs - "Latex Paint for your Homebuilt Aircraft". You can sign up through the EAA website.
Hello Moses
I was wondering if you ever followed up with latex paint. This post kind of died quickly. I am thinking of using Latex on my model IV as I have done with a couple of other planes. DId you use latex or an other finish
Norm
Norm, how did you like the latex? Methods? Pictures?
Cheers,
Larry
I like latex for the simplicity and no toxic chemicals on application. Latex can provide a fairly good finish using rolling techniques. The finish can rival a good polytone finish but it would be tough to get a finish similar to a professional aerothane finish using my method.
I start applying the fabric using Stewart systems contact cement. There are a lot of youtube videos on this so I don’t think further explanation is necessary. ASAP (aircraft sales and parts) used to supply 3M contact cement with their application process and as far as I can tell it is the same product.
Once the fabric is applied as needed and shrunk to the proper temperature then it is time to apply paint. I start with Kilz primer thinned with blue windshield washer fluid. The thinning allows the primer to soak through the fabric for a good bond. I dry sand between coats using a 400 to 600 sandpaper. This gives the smoothest base possible for your final applications.
(Kilz primer is water based and used to cover smoke damage after a fire. It is a great sealer and covers the blue glue well. I believe Zensor 123 is a similar product but I have not used it.)
The latex (exterior house paint) is then applied using a small closed cell white 4inch roller. The paint is again thinned about 20% with blue windshield washer fluid. I find that it is best to apply the paint with the surface flat because at this thinning it is possible to get runs if you are not careful. A light sanding between coats keeps the finish as smooth as possible. Again please remember you are not going to get a show grade finish but you should be able to obtain a very good finish with very little bumps (orange peal) if you are careful. I have seen the finish come up with fewer imperfections than a poor polyfibre finish.
Leave the finish cure for a couple of weeks and you can use a good wax to seal.
One site recommended using a clear aerothane over the latex to give a great shine. DO NOT DO IT. I tried some aerothane on the gearlegs and ended up with some major cracking in less than 6months. Without the clear coat the plane looks like the day I rolled it out of my garage.
You will note the plane has a grey coat on it. I used some black paint in the Kilz to give it a bit of a filler look. I do not know if this makes any difference to the UV protection. In terms of UV protection Latex has been shown to provide good protection on its own in various tests. I recently read that the protection is only to prevent the paint from chalking and it made me stop and think for a second. I guess the final proof will be in 5 to 10 years with a punch tester. My plane was a factory built plane from the SkyStar era and the polyspray step was left out of the finishing process. It spent a lot of it’s life as a ramp plane and the fabric lasted about 10 years. I do not know when it became unsafe to fly but I have posted videos of how the fabric would rip easily if pulled.
I have seen Latex finishes where the application was with a regular roller and the finish was horrid. It looked like a stipple ceiling. Certainly the type of finish to give latex a bad name.
Types of paint. The Buzzard used Behr exterior semi gloss and I am quite happy with the finish. I find the Red to be a little nicer than the white and I am not sure if I thinned one better than the other, or if the pigment gave a better finish. I guess that is why this is experimental.
I was in Lowes and they have a product called Valspar Semi Gloss. They have painted a rubber ball and use it to demonstrate the holing power and flexibility of the product. They have also painted some siding with this product and after 5years of people scratching it with keys and coins it is still holding up quite well.
I have decided that this is the product I will be using on the Model IV.
This brings up another interesting point. Is Latex appropriate for your project? It you are putting together a simple low cost plane then latex may be the answer, but if you are looking at doing a show stopper with glass panel and all then you may want to go with an approved finish. Also I am sure the resale of latex will be much less than an approved finish but I don’t plan on selling this plane anytime soon.
Latex can be done in my attached garage as could Stewarts but not polyFibre.
If I had the room to spray latex I am sure I could get an even better result but the white rollers do provide a fairly good finish.
One last thought, when someone asks you the type of finish, use the term “an experimental water based finish” Latex has a bad rap and you will note this to be true as we listen the naysayers chime in on this thread.
Thanks, Norm. It looks good! I worked my way through college in a cancer research lab, so you can imagine how I feel about messing with nasty solvents!
Larry
Your welcome. I did try some silver paint that was a latex. It was a Martha Stewart decorator paint and like Marta did not play well with others. It came out ok but I would not recommend it. This new Valspar looks very good and as I get some on the Fox I will post some photos. BTW this is the finished Buzzard.
I did this fisher in Valspar Latex with Zinzer bullseye 123 primer a few years back turned out flawless, I used an airless sprayer I like it. Stuff is just a bit heavy.
So I have to ask How is it holding up? Any cracking or signs of premature failure? Looks very good. Other than the airless sprayer was the technque similar to what I listed?
Norm
Be honest with you I have no idea, A guy saw a picture of it on the web and made me an offer I couldn't refuse and shipped it down the road, we all know its hard to make a profit in this hobbie so when you can you do, my method was seal it with poly brush then UV it with poly spray then prime and paint, I wouldn't use that method again, I would just seal the weave with the latex primer, and forget the poly method, An airplane that sees 2 hours of sunlight a week doesn't need the UV from poly spray, lets face it house paint has way more UV protection than any other paint. In my opinion,
Do you remember your thinning ratio and your preferred thinner. Did the airless spray well or was it splotchy, Do you remember the nozzle size of the airless sprayer. Also how much overspray did you have to deal with? Any tips are always helpful to all considering these experimental processes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TJay
no need to thin with an airless also a good airless sprayer is never blotchy if it is you need to stop and figure out what your doing wrong. tip size will be anywhere from 309 to 311 could use a 411 also but you will have overspray then. Is really easy and fun to experiment. good luck
Very good info here on using latex, from the same fellow who did the EAA webinar:
http://www.wienerdogaero.com/Latex.php
I went to his seminar at Oshkosh and was surprized at the shine in his finish. We talked briefly about our differences in method but unfortunately did not have the time I would have liked. Malcom does some great things with latex.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dginok