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Trying to decide between using keyed or keyless. Right now I'm planning on using them to attach new door skins (6-32 stainless screws) so not a lot of torque will be applied. I purchased the rivet nut tool from ACS and it gets the rivet nut quite tight. If using the keyed variety, how do you best cut the keyway? Thanks in advance.
Rick
I used keyless for my bubble doors with a drop of red loctite on each.
No problems yet.
I use the keyed ones and generally use a small needle file to make the notch. That's for the conventional, original aluminum RivNut design. There's nothing more frustrating than a RivNut that comes loose and spins. Larry's use of the red Loctite is a good idea. I used a few of the steel Tric-Nut brand rivet nuts on my doors and other places on my Kitfox. They have a serrated area that bites into the hole as they expand, creating a really spin proof installation if done right. I use the red Loctite on those too - belt & suspenders.
I have used the Rivet nuts (Keyless) but had issues with spinning as others have mentioned. For the Kitfox with the smaller size bolts, I have used the Nutserts. These are steel and I have had no problems with them spinning.
I use rivnuts a lot. I like the key less ones but with a keyed one you can use a dremel or a very small file. I ussually just Dab some loctite 680 instead
What puller are you using for these Rivnuts? Trying to decide if I want to spend the money on a pneumatic one...
Thanks,
Clark
I recommend not using pneumatic for rivnuts. You can pull the threads out. Ounkind if have to go by feel. Steel rivnuts are better
I use the rubber ones, they provide a nice cushion for the lexan door windows and are easy to change out when broken.
[URL="http://www.arpel.co.uk/shop/Rubber-Nut-Inserts/product/Rubber-Rivet-Nut---M3-x-05/JF-3250"]
jan
I ended up buying a rivnut tool from ACS, P/N 12-00968 (about $23). A little tedious but worked just fine for what I needed.
Rick