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Re: First, Build a Shed
Carl, Yes the drawings are confusing and not correct. The backing plates on page 59 show all holes, but only one side is rivet holes, the other side is holes for the self-tapping screws you will use. Page 61 is not correct for the airfoiled tail. Use the cut pattern shown on page 63. Don't use the standard tail pattern; it will require way too much bending to get on and off. The pattern on page 63 shows two cuts at right angles to each other; the backing plate only goes on the vertical cut. The horizontal cut doesn't really need a backing plate to stay in position, although I suppose you could put one there if you wanted, but in my experience it is not needed. On the very rear where the access cover screws onto the fiberglass fairing, I highly recommend you reinforce the backside of the fairing with a strip of aluminum (just use Hysol to attach it). This will give those screws something more substantial to tap into and help avoid stripping them out during your frequent removal of these access covers every annual.
While I'm spouting off on suggestions, make sure you put a round inspection cover on the belly of the airplane right under the elevator rear idler arm. Every annual you need to inspect and lube the ball joints and a cover makes it easy-peasy. Wouldn't hurt to also put one under your rear AP servo maybe.
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Re: First, Build a Shed
I used little Tinnerman clip nuts around the perimeter of those panels - I believe they were included in the kit. I used some slightly different ones on the rear 4 holes. Then I used some "Tric-nuts" on the steel tabs that are welded to the fuselage. It would have been just as good to use the clip nuts there too. So, those little SS screws have a replaceable "nut" to screw into. I can post some pictures showing how everything went together for me if it would be helpful, Carl.
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Re: First, Build a Shed
Thanks for the quick answers and suggestions guys. Reinforcing the fiberglass is obviously a good idea and I wouldn't have thought of it until the holes weakened. And now I know the real name for those "clip nuts thingies".
Definitely need an inspection plate under the AP servo and I'll remember to put another under the idler arm. While I'm taking notes, what lube do you use on the ball joints?
Pictures would be great John.
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Re: First, Build a Shed
Almost everything in the Kitfox is lubed with LPS-1. That will work on the Hiem ball or rod ends (ball end thingies;)).
Another lube that I like even better is Triflow, we use in our shop. It is a Teflon based lube.
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Re: First, Build a Shed
I specifically recall assembly of the mixer calling for "bearing grease" on the pivot bolts. I can't imagine reapplying every annual. Are people not using bearing grease at these points?
Eddie
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Re: First, Build a Shed
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Re: First, Build a Shed
Yes, bearing grease on the pivot bolts, and Tri-Flow on the rod ends. I do not regrease the pivot bolts every annual, just check them for free motion.
Like John I also used the "clip nuts" on the access panels. The manual tells you to use them along the top and front, but says to use self tap screws into the weld tabs on the bottom. I found that to be nearly impossible in the thick steel tabs, so I used the clip nuts there also and am glad I did.
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Re: First, Build a Shed
Glad to hear you guys did the tinnerman clips on purpose. I did it since I oversized the holes being inattentive during that procedure.
Eddie
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Re: First, Build a Shed
I drilled and tapped the lower tabs.
cheers
r
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Re: First, Build a Shed
For anyone who might stumble on this conversation while searching for information on the tail access plates, John posted detailed photos on his "John's Build" thread. This link will take you to the relevant page.
http://www.teamkitfox.com/Forums/sho...3432#post63432