The feel of the ailerons on my plane is getting heavier, lately. Does anyone use some sort of lubricant on the bushings or turtle-deck split bearings to keep the feel light?
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The feel of the ailerons on my plane is getting heavier, lately. Does anyone use some sort of lubricant on the bushings or turtle-deck split bearings to keep the feel light?
A difference in control feel is one of those insipid warning signals that makes my alert light illuminate.
You might do an inspection of the bearings, bushings and linkages to find the cause of the binding. Start with elimination. Disconnect one aileron linkage and see if the problem goes away. If not try the other side. If it’s still stiff, disconnect both sides and start chasing the problem.
And certainly, lube in the bearings/bushings can't hurt.
Let us know what you find.
John Pitkin
Greenville, TX
I was told to use LPS 1 on the flapperon bearings. Something about not attracting dirt ect. Seems to work fine.
I'll be interested in hearing what Avieighter finds as it may be pertinent to other aircraft. If he finds a galling bushing causing the binding it could be a heads up even though it looks like an isolated incident. t doesn't sound serious now, but a jammed fight control could get my attention.
Just one of those things that makes you take a closer look.
On the subject of lube, I personally like the LPS family of products. The LPS1 is a "dry" lubricant that does not leave a sticky residue. Just don't get it on things you want to paint. The silicone makes horrible fish eyes.
LPS2 is a little heavier, more like a spray oil without the sticky goo.
LPS3 is great for corrosion protection. Almost like spray chain lube. Way better than that WD stuff.
John Pitkin
Greenville, TX
LPS-1 is the preferred choice... And you may want to pull the seat and lube all the controls.. basically anything that moves... Also check for any rubbing of the flaperon control tube on the bottom of the seat... It operates very close to the seat.
Annual time is coming (might start tonight), so I will inspect everything and get some LPS1 to lube the rod-ends and hinge bushings.
Thanks for the advise. I'll let everyone know what (if anything) I find amiss.
word of advice, wd40 is NOT a lubricant and will wear out your controls with use on such.
How about Corrosion-X lubricant? It was recommended to me for lubrication of control linkages when I was building a Zenith 601XL. Is it acceptable for lubricating control linkages on a Kitfox?
just stay away from wd40 all it's good for is for fishing. I guess
Final verdict was the aileron push-rod was dragging on the bottom of the fiberglass seat pan. The seat pan was cracked at the reinforcement in the front. I repaired (and reinforced) the seat pan and lubed all the rod ends and joints with LPS1.
The ailerons are now less than fingertip light. :D
Check your seat pans is the gist of this one. I'll do it next time at the hangar.
Larry,
I have few questions about your seat pan cracking.
Is your seat pan one with the factory storage compartments molded-in. (one piece.) A seat pan with an optional seat storage box(es). ie builder installed; or, no seat storage box?
My SS7 seat pan came with factory molded-in seat storage and it appears to add a lot of stiffness to the seat pan by providing additional webbing. However, I do see a potential area on the left side where getting in and out of the aircraft could crack the pan. Based on your experience and a few other reports I may look into beefing up the seat pan in the area over the aileron push rod.
Thanks for the follow-up report. It's always good to hear you found the problem and it was an easy fix.
John Pitkin
Greenville, TX
Larry,
ACF-50, the little samples that are handed out at OSH are great for lubing flaperon bushings, rod end bearings, and tail surface hinges.
See you at the show!
JimS
Jim-- Got the camper set up today (in the mud!!) in the usual place. Still planning on flying over to the UL Field on Sunday Morning with the Outstanding Champ.
John-- I do NOT have the under-seat storage boxes. One of the things that I did (on a suggestion by JimS) was to add a reinforcing block between the seat bottom and underlying tubes. The seat now partially sits on the lower tubes rather than only hanging on the front and rear edges. Adding the under-seat storage boxes will do the same, I think.
My seat pan delaminated where the reinforcing rib is bonded to the seat pan. The split started at the front of the pan, just behind where the seat hangs on the bungee truss. I re-fiberglassed this area and added more cross-weave layers to hopefully keep this from happening again...