Assembly Instructions? Rudder Cable Rigging Tips Needed

Evening all. New owner of a Kitfox IV Speedster. Love the airplane.

Discovered almost immediately that the rudder stops were INOP, causing rudder hard-over with danger of rudder binding on elevator. Discovered further that the right rudder cable swaged fitting was badly worn due to same problem. Rudder stop tabs on fuselage seemed to be "diving under" the cross member in the rudder.

I believe I have a solution for the stops, but need to rig a new rudder cable. To remove the old, I'm going to have to cut it, and that means I can't duplicate its length accurately. I've not rigged anything, let alone a rudder cable. I have an A&P who'll review the work, but I need help in figuring out how to rig it.

Left a voice-mail a few days ago for John McBean, who graciously returned it tonight even though he's at Oshkosh and I'm sure up to his eyeballs. He suggested that I get the assembly instructions which have rigging information, and that he'd send the CD, but I'm hoping I can get hold of the PDF file before July 31st which is the absolute earliest I might expect Kitfox to send it.

If anybody has a copy of the assembly instructions for a Kitfox IV Speedster as a PDF and could forward it to me, as well as any pertinent tips and instructions, that might get me flying again before July's over.

I've attached some photos of the fuselage tabs, the proposed rudder stop solution(s) and the worn swaging.

Any help gratefully accepted.

Rather than starting over, I would suggest installing an aircraft turnbuckle on both sides. They take up a couple of inches, just what you need. Kitfox doesn't use them but other planes do.

You also need a swaging tool. Most of us hold the cable with a small hardware store cable clamp while we swage it. Then remove the cable clamp and trim the cable. I have a kit from spruce that includes cutters.

To get them even, you clamp a block across all 4 pedals to line them up. It's more involved than that but you get the idea.

Tahoe Tim, thanks for the quick input. I really appreciate that.

I also heard this morning from John McBean, and include his reply here; his instructions are clear, and pretty much mirror what you've suggested, and what I had sussed out on my own. I have cutters, the swaging tool, and sufficient cable and swages for a practice effort or two before the final version.

"Your version 2 should be a satisfactory solution... Be careful you do not interfere with the fiberglass leading edge of the rudder.

I have not rigged the rudder on the IV for a long time and it is different then the 7. That said, I think you need to route the cable and attach it up front... Then center and clamp the tail and clamp the rudder pedals parallel... Then mount the cable eye on the links and the links to the rudder. Pull the cable through the eye and pull it tight through the Nico sleeve... Mark the cable... Loosen the assembly align the marks and crimp the Nico sleeve.
Hope that makes sense...

As for using a teardrop versus the cable eye... That is your call... Cable eyes are what has been used for years and we feel a better choice. Refer to 43-13 for crimping the sleeve. This is assuming your only replacing the one cable. "

Had considered the turnbuckles, but figured that added a layer of complexity and might invoke the Law of Unintended Consequences. May get to that in future; would make tuning simpler.

I did mine a week ago so it was still fresh. The turnbuckle was an way to save the old cable but if you are swapping it out anyway, follow the factory design.

good luck and grab a couple of the little cable clamps to help you.

http://www.zoro.com/dayton-wire-rope....ds#imagePopUp

Finally found the discussion on page 8 of general discussions about swaging rudder cables, from 2011; immensely helpful, and now feel much more confident about getting this done.

My rudder cables were swedged with what looks like maybe a pair of vice grips. I intend to put in new swedges and turnbuckles also as suggested here. You have never lived until you have had a rudder cable swedge pull loose on landing ..............

Having a swaged rudder cable loosen at ANY time is the very thrill I'm hoping to avoid.

Getting used to visiting the hangar but not flying. Thimbles, recommended by John McBean instead of teardrop eyelets, expected to arrive tomorrow, and then let the swaging begin. In the meantime I've built version five of my modified rudder stops, and expect them to be installed today. Think I've got the right solution but am learning that "simple" modifications are anything but.

Really learned a lot by reading the entire "tips and tricks" thread; now working my way through many others. This site is a wonderful resource.

Get the whole swaging kit from Spruce. tool, cutters, go/no-go gauge.

Also, the three swages go in a certain order; center first, closest to end next, then third toward cable. I have the big crimp tool and the little hand held tool and I seem to use the hand held one more.