Windshield Pattern IV

Happy Thanksgiving,
I'm building a model IV Classic project with many of the parts that are missing or mismatched from other models. I have my Lexan for the new windshield, however I don't have an old windshield to use as a pattern. My firewall forward is off a model II and the cowling and glare shield will need to be altered to fit my plane so I can't use those to determine the location of the leading edge of the windshield. Would anyone have a paper tracing of a windshield and/or glare shield for a IV Classic? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Mike

Per the manual, the windshield is installed with its leading edge against the aft edge of the cowl top. If you will be modifying the cowl as well, the following is what I would do and what I did on my second Model IV build.
Look at several IVs in profile – pictures might be best - to determine the angle of the windshield face relative to a landmark – door top, butt rib, etc. after determining that angle take a strip of aluminum or thin steel and fastening it to both sides of the airframe with clamps and fit the windshield material under that strip. It may take some undoing and redoing to get what you want. Once all is in order, drill to mount the windshield. Once that is complete, fit the upper cowl and see where trimming might be necessary there. What I would do and did is cut off the curved flange that is designed to snug up to the windshield unless by some stroke of luck everything is perfect. Once the flange is cut away, remove the cowl and scuff sand the 3 to 4 inches of the aft edge. Clear plastic shipping tape makes and excellent separating medium for epoxy. Using the tape, cover the bottom four or five inches of the windshield to where there will be no risk of resin contact.
The following is a technique I learned while helping build a Lancair IV. It is a technique that was very often used on that project and is perfect for those glass jobs that might pop up from time to time to finesse our builds.
Take some glass cloth and cut about 4 strips 3 to 4 inches by 26 inches, depending on the gap between windshield and cowl. The 26 inches being a bit longer than half the arc from door to door on the cowl. Place a piece of vinyl sheeting about a foot wide and three feet long on the top of a flat work surface. Place the first piece of cloth on that and saturate it with epoxy resin. Lay the second piece of cloth and make sure it is saturated and do the same for pieces 3 and 4. Once saturated, place another piece of vinyl on top of the stack and squeegee as much resin from the stack as you can – moving expressed resin away from the cloth stack. Cut away the excess vinyl a half inch or so from the stack. Brush a light coat of resin over the desired half of the scuff sanded aft edge of the cowl. Remove the top layer of vinyl and carry the remaining stack to the cowl windshield junction and lay it in position resin side down. Remove the remaining vinyl and using gloved fingers press the glass against both the protected windshield surface and the cowl, then into the desired curvature between cowl and windshield. If you push too hard in spots tap it up from behind or using a needle penetrate the bundle and pick it up to be tapped again into position. The other half of the junction could be done right away or after the first section has cured. If you choose to do the second half later, sand the joint to make a scarf joint between the two layups. I like to use microballoons mixed with epoxy to make a filler to hide the glass weave and correct imperfections in the surface. It sands easily and can be mixed to varying consistencies as needed. The most practical for this application would have the consistency of peanut butter avoiding the tendency to sag or run.

New Build done this way.

Thanks Lowell. Your instructions were very complete.