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I have two fiberglass long range tanks in my Model 3 w/ clear windows for a fuel level indication. This is hard to see, dose not work well. I've seen the top to bottom tube type indicators, but they would also be hard to see in my application. Has anyone found a better system? Would like gauges in the panel with sensors. But have not found any that look like they would work in these tanks?
standard kitfox tank or improvised tank? if improvised ,..is there room for a top mount sensor? the head is about 5/8" tall ,..sensor is cut to desired length ,..AC spruce carries them,..I have 1 that has not been cut ,..it's yours if you want it ,..let me dig it up I'll post a photo ..brb
ok found it ..it is never been used but I do not have the gasket for it ,.it takes 5 an-3 size bolts,and is actually about 3/4" thick with a 12 inch sender tube that get's cut to desired length ,..the 2 phyllips head screws are for adjusting the gauge once the desired length is cut.
label on the unit it [ 395-5S FUEL SENDER 4 TO 12 INCH 240 OHM 994]
I'm assuming 4 inches is the shortest you can cut the tube from the bottom of the sender to end of tube
Tanks are standard KF tanks, They are flush with the top of the wings. No room for top mount sensors. But thanks for the reply and the nice offer.
Mark, Thanks for all the details, It may work. I'll check it out.
sorta figured that but wasn't sure ,..there is a side or end mount sensor that has a float on an arm but you must cut a 2 inch hole in the end of the tank for install,.. I'm thinking ACS carries it ,..I know I have seen them recently since I am building tanks shortly and looking for the same thing ,..a float type sender,..if I find it again I'll post it here for you
Chase
What I did for mine is use an over-sized clear fuel tube and a red ball. They use this 1/4 inch red cork ball in the Yankee fuel indicator. I put a smaller sized fuel line at either end of the large line: one sleeved over the other. This keeps the red ball in your field of view and keeps the fuel line from collapsing around the bend. A few turns of safety wire around the outside here helps too. I suppose you could shove in some hard, small diameter nylon tube in the bend as well.
The barbs go into the side of the tank so that the line is at a slant front to back. There are several pictures of similar ones. Put something white behind the tube and place level marks on it. Also, use some "EZ-Turn" on the threads to help keep the tank from weeping gas around the new holes.
Instead of hose clamps I used safety wire wrapped 3 times around the tubes. This gives a nice even pressure all the way around and doesn't let the fuel leak between the two hose sizes. Also I put on this wrap on two places on each barb for redundancy.
If I didn't make it plain, the large outside tube goes all the way from one barb to the other. The two smaller tubes are inside at either end starting at the barb. The wire wrap is on at two places on the barb to keep the outer hose from slipping and to secure it to the inner one. It was 3/8 ID outer, 1/4 ID inner and 1/4 " brass barb.
I used this same setup for a witness tube in my header vent line. Since the header was right behind the panel the tube was right in front of me to remind me to turn on the boost pump if needed.
For my IV I'm thinking about using a glass witness tube. I learned how to bend and shape tubing when working as a co-op. At least this would be unlikely to turn dark from the fuel.
FWIW,
Mark Napier