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Has anyone used the Stewart covering system on their Kitfox (or other aircraft)? I like the sound of it but have never used either covering system (Stewart Systems or Poly Fiber). If you'd had any experience with Stewart Systems please share your thoughts.
Thanks, Jim
Back in 1999 I used it to cover my TEAM miniMAX. It was easy to use, most importantly was not as toxic and caused me no problems spraying in my attached garage. In the end I won grand champion ultralight at Arlington when it was finished! What could be better than that?
http://www.karmy.com/minimax/picture...000/award1.jpg
Jim, I've just finished my model IV using the Stewart system and found it exceptionally easy to use. They advised my to aniticipate 300 hours to cover, but I've completed mine in half that time. I also used the environmentally friendly paint, which takes some getting use too. You can apply it with a fine roller, but it goes on much better with a good spray gun. I'm very pleased with the result as a first time process for me. Please feel free to contact me should you have further questions at (989A) 820-7122.
I'm in the process of covering my M4 with Stewart Systems. At this point, I can't imagine trying to do Poly Systems in my home garage. Stewarts is easy and forgiving for some one who doesn't cover airplanes for a living and I'm not stinking up the house with MEK or risking losing my home to a fire.
For professional use in a factory environment, Poly Systems is probably faster. The Stewarts glue is heat activated, so you spend a lot more time ironing than just when you shrink the fabric. And until you get some experience, the first few parts will need some cleanup with the "big eraser", which adds more time.
But in general, it's so easy to work with that I doubt that I'm actually going any slower than I would have with Poly Systems. At least I don't have to wear a mask or strap myself to the part to prevent static sparks. And there's no rush to get anything done before the glue dries. When my wife calls me to dinner, I just drop the brush in a coffee can full of water and cover the glue cup with some wax paper and I can pick up right where I left off when I come back. You don't have to wash your hands with MEK to get the glue off, either. It just rubs off with the same big eraser that you use to clean up the parts.
Speaking of the "big eraser", it's a rubber eraser like you'd use to clean the belt on a belt sander. You use it to remove "nubbies", which are bits of excess glue that form if you don't get your technique right. The main thing that causes them is if you try to iron the glue before it's completely dry, but you also get them if you don't wipe off the excess glue carefully while it's still wet. Once you get your technique down, you'll mostly just need the eraser to clean your fingers.
I haven't started painting yet, but if it makes that black art as approachable as it has the covering process, I'll be tickled pink. I guess we'll see.
Im currently using Stewart Systems on my Skyraider build, its my first airplane build so I dont have any real experience to compare to.So far so good as I have my wings finished and painted and getting ready to do the fuselage.I have a set of DVD,s that Stewarts sent me when I made my first order with them. They are very helpful and getting the right paint gun with the right size tip is critcal on the paint.The first few coats of paint you will just barely fog it on. They show you all of the techniques on the DVD,s.I find that the smell is not even as much as latex house paint so you wont be destroying your lungs or brain cells everytime you take a breath.The factory support is excellent and very nice people to deal with.
Good Luck Randy
Thank all of you for your informative replies. I'll order the Stewart Systems' DVDs today and give it some more thought.
Thanks, Jim
I used the Polyfiber system. Finished covering and paint three years ago. To this day, even though using quality mask and gloves, I still cannot smell MEK. Consider the Stewart system.
Note: It was only when I was painting the final red trim that I noticed the red tinge on my beard - my mask had been leaking fumes past the beard during the entire covering and painting process. Be advised.
Important safety tip there! I learned the hard way painting a truck with DuPont Imron (nasty stuff that leaves an awesome finish).
If you are painting with something requiring breathing filtration, you either need to shave your beard or use a supplied air hood.
I did all of my painting in the garage which is attached to the house. Even though I built a plastic paint booth and had vent fans pulling the fumes to the outside, the house absorbed the fumes from the PolyFiber products. If I were to do it again, I would certainly take a look at the Stewart System as an alternative. I know my wife would appreciate it as she ended up with a few headaches from it.
The other thing I would metion is this...We all know they recommend a fresh air supply when shooting Aerothane. I ended up using a fresh air supply while shooting PolyTone (as well as the prep products). It is my humble opinion that using a filter mask with PolyTone is not enough. MEK is not a chemical to be used hap-hazardly.
Let's be careful out there
I have a buddy that has been using it since it came out in the 90,s He rebuilds lots of Super Cubs. His planes still look new although he keeps them hangered. I would look around in your area and find someone that uses Stewarts and then you would know how it holds up in your envirmement.Someone told me that Stewart Systems hold up to ultra violet sun rays better than any of them due to the filler that they use.As far as bugs in your paint,just tell everyone you flew it before the paint had a chance to dry. It will look great, good luck. Randy