KF3 582 Install Issues

Fitting the engine, cowling, and exhaust I notice the the clearance of the exhaust is about the thickness of a quarter away from the cowling as it makes the 90 degree swivel. With an exhaust temperature of about 1200 degrees that sound like a potential for a fire or at least a lot of cowling warpage. Looks like I need to cut away a chunk of cowling at the seams for this to work. Anybody else had this issue? Also why does the 2 cycle oil tank need to be mounted at that goofy angle. That's about the only thing I do have room for and could mount it upright. Built an Avidflyer an don't remember having so many issues, but at my age I can't remember much anyway.

Sorry for the long wind question..

I had the exhaust/cowel clearance issue with a 503 in my Classic 4. The builder manual says it will fit but it does not. It may be that you have an unmodified (cut, shortened, and re welded) 90 degree piece. Mine seems to be unmodified. Supposidly the un cut and shortened 90 lets the engine get it's true horsr power. Anyhow, I cut a hole in the cowel.

This is my speculation on the angle mounting of the oil tank. It is so the outlet is at a low point so oil can't slosh to the side away from the outlet if you fly uncoordinated. I used an oil tank off a 89 Ski Doo Skandic. It has a built in sump at the bottom of the tank so it can't starve the oil pump in an uncorridinated turn.

Here's a picture that shows the exhaust sticking out the hole in the cowel.

Yep. That's just about where I'll have to cut a hole in mine. I'm gonna do some more hair pullin before I fire up the saw. Sounds good on the oil tank. Makes sense! I think I would have threw in the towel a while back if it wasn't for U guys and this site.

Thanks.

I cut the cowls around the elbow on my Model III so it isn't apparent from the outside with the nose cowl installed. The clearance is closer than I'd like. I haven't run it yet and don't know how much charred fiberglass I'll get.

-- Paul S

My Mk4 had the same problem and the paint bubbled quickly. One option is to stick some reflective heat resistant tape inside the cowl to stop it getting too hot. Before I thought of that I too cut some away. You dont need to cut too much as the smallest hole wicks away the heat when you are flying.

Don't forget a fine pitch setting on the prop will result in a much hotter EGT and an increased risk of the cowl overheating. I'm not suggesting you set a coarser pitch to save your paintwork (!) but if you do go for max static your cruise EGT will be up nearer 1200 making the risk of melting the paint a lot higher if the elbow/cowl gap is any less than half an inch.

Mine.......

If a picture is worth a thousand words I just got my moneys worth. A lot of good info packed in there like placement of all the other goodies under the hood. My construction manual is the worst. Oh, by the way, love that yellow. Mine is also yellow.

I also recommend the stick on heat shields. I lined the cowling in the immediate area of the muffler as well as the firewall blanket. Worked good. Easy to cut and sticks well.



I ordered mine from Summit racing.