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Looking through the manual, there are several torque values ranging from 10 - 15 in/lbs. Finding torque wrenches starting at 20 in/lbs but wrenches that can go as low as 10 in/lbs tend to be very expensive. Any suggestions? Is it as simple as tighten to prevent lateral movement and not so tight that the parts won't move?
MoFlyer Mike,
Now you hit a subject dear to my heart:)
You do fish in Missouti, right?
One of my favorite tools for torquing stuff where the normal wrench doesn't fit or the torque values are off scale is this:
1) Get a fish scale.....calibrate it with a known weight....I have found that most fish scales are biased towards the end of the scale that makes a fish person feel exceptionally good about their catch:D FWIW - scales of this type, if they have an error, are off by a percentage so using a known weight towards the high end of what the scale reads will do just fine. Figure out the % error and write it on the scale for reference.
2) Pick out a combination wrench where the open end fits the fastener and the closed end can be used to hook your scale...
3) Measure the distance center to center on your combo wrench in inches and do the math for the torque value. Be sure to apply your correction factor determined in 1) above to the reading.
4) When applying torque with the scale, be sure to keep it tangent to the arc of the wrench for accuracy.
Very inexpensive solution. Neither the cost of the wrench nor the presence of a computer chip in it necessarily determines accuract....calibration does. The scale method also lets you see where you are on torque as you approach the target value compared to the snap/click wrenches.
Sincerely,
Dave S
Excellent Dave! I do have access to calibrated weights for our scales so known weights shouldn't be a problem. Could be an issue with the setup in some locations of nuts on the airframe but will work around them.
Thanks again,
Mike
I found a simple old fashioned flexing beam with scale type torque wrench at a motorcycle shop for reasonable price. It is sized for torques down in the 10-50 in-lb range.
Not sure what is considered expensive, but I found a 3/8 drive at Harbor Freight that adjusts from 5 to 80 foot pounds for $21.99.
Link: http://www.harborfreight.com/3-8-eig...rench-807.html
I think I see what I missed - you need inch pounds!
I use this one. I think I paid about $60 a couple years ago. The beam style is great for finding your nut friction too.
http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-Tor.../dp/B00LPLNLNQ
This thread is a few years old and I will be picking my kit up the first week of June. My shopping cart is full of stuff that this forum has recommended, but no torque wrenches yet. What torque wrenches are people using for kit assembly (not engine stuff), and where can I get them?
I was going to get a 0 -300 inch lb dial, figuring that would cover most everything, and then borrow my neighbors Snap On clickers fit everything above that. What say the crowd?
FWIW from an anal engineer: I would suggest investing in your own torque wrenches. Wrench accuracy can vary widely depending on use and abuse. If you have your own, you can calibrate and use the same wrench every time. My Craftsman 3/8" and 1/2" clickers work fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy66
Greg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danzer1
Have to agree with Greg on this
BTW - I have found that just about every A & P and (every other type of mechanic) I know has a little discussed but almost universally and ocasionally used torque wrench, tongue in cheek, called a "proprioceptive torque wrench" for use in those awkward places no mechanical torque wrench will fit or if you are in the outback somewhere without your favorite T wrench. Basically, with time and experience, a person will know pretty well within a very small variation what a particular torque feels like on a particular diameter bolt and thread pitch even without a T wrench. Results can also be real close if, with experience, a person observes how far a bolt has to be turned after taking the slack out of the fastener.
I like my 3/8" clicker and use a 1/2" beam for what little amount of big stuff is on a plane, both calibrated.
I have a Craftsman 0-300 in-lb clicker which is real nice for spark plugs and larger bolts, but I found that a small 0-50 in-lb beam style was the one I used most in my kit building for the numerous small nuts/bolts. These small bolts are the easiest ones to damage with overtorque if you are not using a torque wrench.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Danzer1
I mentioned I was looking to buy a 0 to 300 and borrow my neighbors Snap On torque wrenches. So, I would own the former and the latter belongs to an A&P friend of mine. Is Snap On a poor quality tool? I thought it was a good brand because every mechanic at my previous flying job had a rolling tool box full of their stuff.
Steve
Thanks Jim, I will add the 0 to 50 to my cart.
Steve
Snap On is pretty much regarded as the nicest tools you can buy. And you do PAY for them. I love my SnapOn stuff but it’s hard to justify the price...
I would personally stay away from Harbor Freight for torque wrenches. This is one tool where you want quality and accuracy and I have heard (hearsay only from several sources) that HF torque wrenches are inconsistent in that regard. If you have a way to check calibration, then go ahead. Just my 2 cents.
Snap On is fine - the point was to use the same torque wrench each time with the same calibration (that can differ to if not done correctly). So if your neighbor is not around, moves, etc. - I find it easier to own my own and know how it was used and calibrated.Quote:
Originally Posted by Flyboy66
Impossible to justify the price, but I do have a really nice quarter drive
Snap-On ratchet the mechanic who ripped me off fixing my car made the
mistake of leaving under the hood ... Wish I had more sockets than just
the 10mm he left on it ...
Jeff
Quote:
Originally Posted by Esser
Thanks everyone. That helps a lot. I am just trying to get most everything that I need so I am not stopped in my tracks because I don’t have a particular tool.
Steve