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I am in the process of getting ready to install streamline fairings on the lift struts. Does anyone have the measurement for the taper angle on the aft strut? I still want the wings to fold so I need to know the distance from the lower lift strut bolt to the point on the strut that I need to begin the taper so the fairing will clear the fuselage when the wings are folded.
Jerry, I designed my own fairings and did as you are doing, but I was at the factory fly-in last year and measured every airplane I could find. The result is that I didn't cut enough off. If I were doing it again, I would taper right down to the aft surface of the lift strut at the bottom end. My fairings are four inches cordwise and the taper extends 24 inches up which is slightly long. Go to my public profile and check the (unreleased) album on my current project,there are photos of what I did. My airplane is a Model IV. I'm interested to hear what others say.
Lowell
These are the 4" wide PVC fairing on a Classic 4. The inboard end of the PVC fairing ends somewhere inside the aluminum cuff in the picture. I don't remember where. The taper starts 31 inches from the center of the strut bolt and intersects the aft edge of the unfaired strut 3 inches from the center of the strut bolt. This maintains a parallel 1/2 inch distance from the fuselage side when folded.
Thanks a bunch Lowell and Tom. That is what I am looking for. I am using clamp on aluminum fairings instead of the pvc but I think the dimensions are real close.
Jerry,
I am curious about your clamp on aluminum. I used aluminum as well patterned after Dan Denney's fairing on his biplane version of the Model IV. I found it a bit tricky, but doable and very light by comparison.
Lowell
hi jerrytex, saw your post on the stream lined fairings i dont know of a fixed measurment as each app. is a little different. suggest you fold each wing along the fuse, to see how to trim the fairing. leave a little extra room for the covering.
also after seeing john mcbeans plane at osh. we did not use the aluminum fairings supplyed with the kit but copied what the factory does to fair the struts top and bottom. i used a filler product called "tiger hair" to fill and fair out the juntion at the bottom and to shape the top. then used body putty to finish fill before priming. it,s a lot of work but makes a lot nicer looking job. sorry i don,t have any pic,s but if you want them i will take some and post them. hope this helps.
I'll try and remember to take a picture of what the fairings look like. A friend gave them to me as she used the PVC ones. These are a pretty slick design and they are very light. They look like they could be made pretty easily on a long bending brake.
Interesting thread as I'm currently thinking about building my own farings out of aluminum. It sounds like some of you have used two sections and joined them at the jury strut? I have toyed with a form and a press to round the leading edge and it is a tricky task. Who has the trick down and can you enlighten us?
Thanks,
Dan
I didn't use the aluminum cuff on my fairings, instead I made the cuff out of the same fabric I used on the wings etc.. and shrunk it to make a nice taught and no joint cuff.
The PVC portion of the fairing nearest the fuselage was cut flush with the lift strut up to a distance of about 6" from the bolt that connects the lift strut to the bottom of the fuselage. There it tapers (in a straight line fashion) for a distance of 36" more.
With the wing folded I get a nice fit without touching the fuselage.
War Eagles technique was in the book during the Denney and Skystar years, the one variation I made was to use an hour glass shaped piece of fabric that extended over the top of the V to top and bottom that when shrunk pulled the top and bottom fabric to a nice rounded shape. Lots of ideas here.
Lowell